Itay Noy Netline (Hands On)

Itay Noy is one of those boutique watch brands that might pass under your radar like Maurice de Mauriac if you didn’t scour the watch boards to discover those gems the general public doesn’t know about. And that’s what my job’s for, to bring to your attention the little guy that gets lost in all the noise of the big brands and the mammoth size of their publicity budgets.

The eponymously named Itay Noy works out of a studio in Tel Aviv, Israel, the only brand in that country. His watches have caught the attention of Mr. C. Bronfman, NY, USA and Mr. Stef Wertheimer, the richest family in Israel. Both men now count an Itay Noy in their collection.

Noy uses solid Swiss movements like ETA, but where he really shines is in his design skills. The man’s got chops, earning a BFA in jewelry from the Bezalel Academy and a Master’s from the Design Academy Eindhoven in the Netherlands. He’s also been recognized for his talent with several awards, such as the Andy Prize and First Place at the Biennale International, St. Etienne, France 2000. To pass down the craft Noy teaches watch design at the Bezalel Academy.

Now to the watches: Noy is no slouch in that area either. He is also a watchmaker who machines the metal himself and hand finishes the parts. He’s also known for his hand painted enamel dials. Noy has 8 lines of watches and I was lucky enough to spend some time with one of the pieces in the Netline collection, the Netline (SKEL6498).

All of the watches in the Netline collection are in a very attractive hexagon case like none other I’ve seen before. The watch features a skeletonized dial and movement with a net motif so you can see the heart of the ETA 6498-1 beating inside. The result is a depth of field that captivates your eye.

You get a great view from both sides of the watch of the swing of balance wheel, the rock of the escapement, the unwinding of the balance spring and the tick of the seconds wheel. Noy places the crown at 4 o’clock in another offbeat element that fits well with the overall design and prevents digging into the wrist from crowns located at 3 o’clock.

People noticed the watch and wanted to see it more closely. Overall reactions were really favorable. Words used to describe it were “neat” and “very cool”.  I’d have to agree. The only drawbacks are the watch is a bit difficult to wind. Perhaps a larger crown would provide a better grip. Also, it’s hard to read the time at different angles because the hands blend in with the movement and hand painted enamel dial. A different color might solve the problem but then again that could disrupt the design aesthetic, which is what make these watches pop out from the crowd.

Although the stainless steel case measures in at a modern 41.6mm, it didn’t overpower my petite wrist. A handmade alligator strap and butterfly buckle cap off the show. The Netline (SKEL6498), with a 38-hour power reserve, comes in a limited edition of 99 and retails for $3,640.

Itay Noy’s watches offer great value and look fantastic. He makes watches in limited editions of 99. Moreover, you can get a special piece from an independent  you won’t find on other wrists and that won’t make you bite your nails over a purchase. As a special service, Noy will take on special orders so you can design your own piece with him.

Itay Noy’s watches are available exclusively through Bareti LLC.

Prices range from $1,800-5,800k

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