Part of the Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono collection

Guy Ellia is a brand to know when you are into big watches, for the simple reason that they redefine the big watch! A great example of this is the  “Jumbo Chrono”. Don’t take the word Jumbo in its name lightly because even in the world of big watches, its diameter might be shocking. 50mm of prime real estate is what this watch offers your wrist. Unwearable will probably be your first reaction, but this Guy Ellia is not like any other big watch. With most large watches, the big equals the bulky, but Guy Ellia follows a different path. The whole concept of the watch is focused on offering you as much watch as possible without compromising on the wearing comfort. This is done by keeping the watch relatively thin, with a height of only 11.5mm. This is about just as high as the regular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, and almost 3mm thinner then the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph!

In addition, the lugs of the Jumbo Chrono are kept relatively short and positioned at a sharp downward angle. On the wrist, this means that the watch is kept secure in place without needing additional space. The crown is also recessed into the case for the most part and the operating buttons for the chronograph are kept in line of the case.

The movement of the Jumbo Chrono is based on the Frederic Piguet caliber 1185. Major change is that the hour and minute hand have been moved to a subdial at 12 o’clock, with the running seconds at its own subdial at 6 o’clock. The minute counter resides at 4 o’clock, while the hour counter takes position at 8 o’clock. Only the chronograph seconds hand has center stage and is mounted in the middle of the dial.

Dial might be a bit too much credit, because the Jumbo Chrono features a so-called “Discovery” dial. This means that large portions of the dial have been cut away so you can admire the inner works of the watch. Since the movement itself is not skeletonized this gives it a highly industrialized look while the air of mystery is still preserved.

In a way, this watch is also equipped with something that you can call a “Discovery” rotor. A ring floating above the outer edges of the movement is joined in the middle by six spokes, giving it the look of an endlessly turning wheel, under which the familiar layout of the movement is visible from the back.

Ellia’s approach to gold is also very interesting; the Jumbo Chrono is available in black, white and pink gold. Each color gives the watch a completely different look, but all have a beautiful, satin-brushed texture that transforms this watch into 50mm of understatement. Yes, it is possible!

Since Guy Ellia started his career in the diamond trade, he includes two diamond set versions as part of the Jumbo Chrono collection. But for those who prefer their carbon served in a different way, Guy Ellia created a special “Carbone” version of the Jumbo Chrono. This slightly more military styled watch (crown guards and screws that stick slightly out of the bezel) has its case crafted out of a solid piece of forged carbon, creating a lightweight watch with a very interesting and subtle texture in the case, that gives you the idea of a ton-sur-ton camouflage look.

So with the Jumbo Chrono Guy Ellia created a versatile, and even wearable, watch that pushes the boundaries of the term “BIG”. Its diameter will impress many, although only its owner will know the fact that it is secretly a “gentle giant” that might bark, but never bite. A big watch this size was never so easy to get along with, but please keep this a secret…they might throw you out of the Big Boys club just because of it!

On the occasion of the 300th anniversary of Rousseau’s birth, the city of Geneva has arranged a celebration called “2012 Rousseau pour Tous” (Rousseau for All).

Rousseau himself was not a watchmaker but he comes from a watchmaking family spanning four generations. His father worked for royalty as the “watchmaker to the Sultan”. It might be said that Rousseau’s methodical thought resulted from the observation of his grandfather David in his workshop “reasoning” with his hands, because watchmaking requires precision and a structural approach.

In honor of Rousseau’s horologic lineage, the Patek Philippe Museum and the Comité Européen Jean-Jacques Rousseau have put together a fantastic exhibition displaying “Timepieces Signed Rousseau” starting from the 17th century. Together with archival documents the exhibit showcases the Geneva Fabrique, an organization of craftsmen and women residing in Saint-Gervais. Within this group were jewelry and watchmaking industries, including goldsmiths, enamellers and engravers comprised of independent workshops working under the apprentice system. There are over 20 pieces directly signed by a Rousseau along with others made by watchmakers trained by a Rousseau.

While I was in Geneva, I had the opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe Museum and take some live pictures of the watches, including a wooden watch that was thought to belong to Jean-Jacques Rousseau. You can really see the high craftsmanship practiced by the watchmakers and the pride they took in their creations. They are not only technically accomplished but also aesthetically beautiful from the cases to the movements. In the collection are sophisticated complications like chiming watches and cases decorated by the accomplished enameller Jean-Pierre Huaud. The memento-mori (skull) and cross-shaped watches reveal what was on people’s minds at the time.

In addition to the Rousseau exhibit, the museum has over 2000 watches on display. It’s an amazing experience to see the evolution of watchmaking over five centuries. While there is an entire floor devoted to Patek Philippe’s watches, which is incredible, there are other watchmakers’ work represented such as Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet. The automata in the back room are truly stunning.

If you are in or near Geneva, I highly recommend a trip to the Patek Philippe Museum. There is so much to take in that breaking it into two trips might be the way to go.

The Rousseau exhibit runs from May 11-October 13, 2012. You can check the museum’s schedule here. More pictures below.

 Although until recently Rolex has always been pretty conservative when it came down their collections. Cases, bracelets and movements slowly evolved rather than changed. However, Rolex always been quite generous with different dial, bezel and bracelet options. Sometimes even special requests from distinguished collectors were granted, although these were almost exclusively gemstone set models.

 Sometimes you didn’t even need to ask Rolex, they simply made some extraordinary gem set watches of their own. Such was the case with this exceptional Day-Date that Rolex created in very limited quantities in the early 1980’s. Exceptional in this matter is not only the abundance of rubies and diamonds, but also the extreme attention to detail that Rolex practiced while making this model. Take for example the golden day and date indications on the burgundy colored background that match the overall look of the watch. Or the Rolex crown and name applied in gold on the inside of the crystal so that the diamond pavé set dial doesn’t have to be interrupted?

 But there is a problem with this Rolex. Not a huge problem, but still something that might have some people pass on this exceptional watch. The problem with this Rolex in the 21st century  is that it cannot decide whether it is a men’s or a ladies’ watch. It was definitely born as a men’s watch. Manufactured in 1982 it was simply out of the question, and most certainly out (or not yet in) style for women to wear such a large watch. But time and tastes have changed, causing this Rolex to have an identity crisis.

 Whole generations of powerful men wore 35mm Rolex and there is a reason the Day-Date is also referred to as the “President”, being the favorite of a couple of US Presidents. Even the dial, pavé set with brilliant cut diamonds, cannot change the perspective that it is a men’s watch. Especially not since it is nicely counterbalanced by a beautiful bezel of baguette cut rubies. The main reason for the identity crisis has to be the bracelet. It is also the bracelet that gives this watch its nick-name “Octopussy”, because of its resemblance to this animal’s tentacles. The two large brilliant cut diamonds, set on either side of a bracelet link, give it a rather feminine look, and even the large baguette ruby on the centre link cannot change that.

 But hold on a second! The larger a diamond gets, the more rare they become, taken that you get the same quality as Rolex did with this watch, and actually the same goes for rubies. Of course this doesn’t change the look of the bracelet, but it does indicate what a rare and precious road Rolex followed to make this piece possible.  

So ladies, wear this watch as it is! Gentleman, get yourself a nice strap for this Day-Date and put the bracelet in the safe for those occasions when you want to show it all out! And when your friends might refer to the lack of masculinity of the bracelet, you can always tell them that the bigger the diamonds you wear, the more man you are! Christie’s auctions this exquisite Rolex as lot No. 139 on May 14^th in Geneva.

The Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel 125th Anniversary Limited Edition

We were fortunate enough to get an up-close-and-personal with a watch we can only refer to as the star of the Millenary Star Wheel collection: a pink gold 125 anniversary model. The greatness of this watch is that it combines everything that makes Audemars Piguet and the Star Wheel so desirable. When you first lay eyes upon this model there is no doubt about it that this is a very exclusive watch. Audemars Piguet’s sense of style is clearly visible in a color combination that is daring, but also breathtaking. Pink gold and a grey dial make for a warm eye catcher that is neither overly sporty nor distinctively dressy. This is even more amplified by the stunning strap made from sanded stingray.

The Star Wheel complication also works very well with the Millenary case. This original case shape hasn’t always been the success for Audemars Piguet that it is today. The reason for that is that it simply doesn’t work for every type of watch. A time-only with date tends to look slightly odd in this case, while the perpetual calendar can only be described as a solid home-run, just as the more recent Millenary 4101 we showed you. But even those watches must make room when this Star Wheel comes into play. The dial is perfectly balanced; you have the time indication on the right side, the Star Wheel spectacle in the middle, and the Audemars Piguet name on the left. Strangely, this is all it takes to give you the impression that the watch is symmetrical, while literally speaking that is of course not the case.

The 125^th Anniversary Star Wheel comes with a closed case back that, when removed, would show Audemars Piguet Caliber 2224/2811. This movement is actually based on Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 889. A beautiful and reliable movement that Audemars Piguet also used as a base movement for their Royal Oak Offshore chronographs before they developed their own in-house base. The closed case back doesn’t, however, prevent us from seeing the part of the movement that gave the Star Wheel its name. This part is visible in plain sight, dead center under each of the 3 sapphire disks. It is those star shaped gears that play a key part in positioning the right number on the right disk at exactly the right time.

The star wheels of the Star Wheel

The Star Wheel has always been a rare watch, and also the 125^th Anniversary Star Wheel was a very limited edition. Not as you might expect 125 of each color of gold, but 125 pieces total! This number was strangely divided over 50 pieces in yellow gold with a white dial, and 75 pieces in pink gold with the grey dial, as we have here. There was also a separate limited edition of 125 pieces in steel, where Audemars Piguet unfortunately felt the need to adorn the blue dial with a couple of random stars. As if the stars under the sapphire dials aren’t enough proof why this model is called the Star Wheel.

In the end we cannot conclude anything else then that this Star Wheel is a landmark piece. Not only for Audemars Piguet but for the entire community. It also proves that one doesn’t have to be an independent to make innovative watches in both design as well as technical approach. And the most beautiful Star Wheel to prove all this, has to be this one!

The movement itself is a work of art, but also on the back of the watch is another, a finely painted enamel miniature of the Mosque adjacent to the College at Wattayah, Oman. These rare Patek Philippe timepieces are, in general, made to special order with the subject matter chosen by the client, representations including celebrities, landscapes or famous buildings. The present watch and its illustration were most probably ordered by or for a dignitary of the Sultanate of Oman.

To render such a picture in enamel is incredibly difficult and only a few people–no exaggeration–can do this type of work. In this case, the renowned master Suzanne Rohr, who might be considered a Sultan of enamel. She is one of the last people able to craft these scenes in miniature and has been in collaboration with Patek Philippe for 45 years when the brand again began production of watches with enamel miniatures. Such attention to detail and time is involved in creating these masterpieces that Rohr only completes three a year. That’s one piece every 4 months!–on top of the time it takes PP to craft the grand complication.

As you can see, Rohr’s hands conjur up the most picturesque images, you might say she qualifies as a magician. The mosque shimmers against the blue sky tinged with clouds, while the sun reflects of its dome. So realistic is the scene that the spire casts a shadow on the roof of the mosque. There’s a depth and vibrancy that is characteristic of Rohr’s work.

This open-faced pocket watch is a supreme example, elegantly showcasing Patek Philippe’s proficiency in all aspects of horological craft. And now here’s an opportunity for you to own a watch touched by the hands of dignitary’s–both of a Sultan’s and Rohr’s. View the lot here.

Estimate: $280,000-390,000

Piaget’s connection to the Royal game of Polo can rival that of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Of course there is the famous Polo, but what to think about this 1995 Legende Lipizzan in special polo-edition? This watch was created in reference to the Lipizzan stallions, which most people know from the famous Spanish Riding School in Vienna, Austria. Even when you have nothing with horses, a Lipizzan stallion is bound to impress you. That can also be said from this watch. Straight, geometric lines combined with two different type of “lugs” create a unique look, that is even reinforced by the use of both yellow and white gold. The dial features two blue polo sticks, and the same amount of brilliant cut diamonds to represent the ball. A very tasteful detail. Under the hood is Piaget’s famed ultra slim caliber 9P2, a manual wind marvel. But then again, that is Piaget’s trademark, from the early 60′s down to more recent record breaking tourbillon’s!

Want more horsepower in your watch? Then Franck Muller can help you! Of course Franck Muller, the man behind the utterly complicated Aeternitas Mega 4, still has to make his first straight forward watch, and this one isn’t it either! The platinum case of this chronograph is set tastefully with brilliant cut diamonds. What’s interesting is that on the bezel, larger diamonds actually serve as hour markers. Engraved on the dial is a scene that features a 1948 Porsche roadster in front of a gate and some pine-trees. The chapter ring around it as well as the sub dial for the minute-counter of the chronograph are made of mother-of-pearl. The watch is signed with “No.0”, making it likely to believe that it is a piece unique, and quite possibly the original owner also enjoyed the 1948 Porsche as well as the estate with pine trees. Not a bad watch to wear while taking the Porsche for a spin!

Where the diamonds actually perform a function, other then enhancing the looks of the watch, is with this LeCoultre-mystery watch. We have seen LeCoultre mystery watches before but we cannot get enough of the two brilliant cut diamonds that actually serve as hands, while smaller diamonds make up the hour indexes. A very elegant way of using diamonds in a more practical way. These diamond hour indexes also indicate that this is a “Galaxy”. In the 1950 and 1960’s this was the top of the line mystery watch from LeCoultre. The movement is not only signed LeCoultre but also Vacheron Constantin, which indicates that this is an early version of this beautiful model!

Pure as fresh fallen snow, yet because of the square shape of the case very manly is this 1953 example of ref. 2488 from Patek Philippe. Patek opted to only use diamonds as hour indexes and leave the case bare platinum. It’s the only diamond watch in this quartet to feature baguette cut diamonds. This type of cut brings out less of the fire and scintillation of the diamond but adds an understated look that suits the stone just as nicely. By the way, this watch is powered by Patek’s caliber 10-200. When you think you have seen some nice manual wind movements, make sure you take a look at this one. The layout of the bridges alone is breathtaking! What also sets it apart from the previous three watches is that this one is actually up for sale! It is lot 217 in Christie’s Geneva auction which takes place on the 14^th of this month.

These four watches clearly indicate that being vintage is not the only way an older watch can rock! They are very widely accepted way to add a little sparkle to your watch collection. And let’s be honest, don’t we secretly all want that?

There’s the usual stuff you might expect like bicycles, furniture, power tools, coins and cars. This time, though, there’s a true gem hidden within the other stuff going up on the auction block. It’s a Patek Philippe 3970E, a perpetual calendar chronograph with the Calibre 27-70- Q manual wind with its black croc strap and rose gold deployant fully signed with hallmarks. We’re talking about a coveted $100,000 plus watch that’s been out of production since 2005. Unbelievable, right? But it’s totally legit. This is the coppers and they have to make sure everything is on the up and up so they guarantee all items genuine, checked out by what they call “inventory experts”. All counterfeit goods get destroyed.

What’s great about bidding through the Property Room  is that if you win you’re also giving back to the community. After the auction, a portion of the proceeds goes back to partner organizations, such as over 2,800 police departments, municipalities, museums and aquariums. Over $41 million bucks has gone back into communities all over the U.S.

Tom Lane, a former detective, established the Property Room in 2000 to help overloaded police departments who just don’t have the time or manpower to hold their own auctions. The goods can end up stuffed into a storage area never to see the light of day. When the cops did find the opportunity to hold an auction, then it was usually held in a parking lot on a holiday weekend without many bidders. Sure, it’s a for profit enterprise, but the Property Room generates cash for worthy causes without the hassle for the client.

Since the Property Room is a little known venue for watches, you just might score yourself an unbelievable deal. The 3970E is the first Patek Philippe Property Room is putting up for auction. Not a bad way to start off. In this case, crime just might pay off.

The Patek 3970E becomes available for bidding online May 9 and runs until the 15^th.

True classics die hard, but sometimes a dash of current times can do even a classic good!

Stuff of dreams but about as necessary as sugar coated cherry on top of your apple sauce, since most occasions in life are perfectly served by a simple, elegant watch with two hands. One hand is inconvenient but three or more hands only add stress. Many brands are still making such watches, often in color combinations that are as classical as a pair of Brogues with rib cord pants. Yellow gold and off white dials still reign supreme in this part of the watch world. But there are other options. One of them is the magnificent Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine reference 81180.

 40mm of contemporary delight! picture by Alex Ghotbi

The case of the 81180 is all in platinum, which still represents a minor part of the market. Although demand is increasing only 2.6 percent of all Swiss watches were made out of this metal in 2004 (source Johnson Matthey). A pity because not only is platinum very exclusive, this metal also has a warm, soft glow that sets it apart from the less regal white gold, not to mention the plebeian steel! By being a white metal you can dress it up or dress it down just as easily as you change your own wardrobe.

 Vacheron Constantin even helps you by equipping the Patrimony 81180 with a grey dial. A regal companion when you wear your pinstripe, while almost sporty looking when you jump into your 501’s! It also gives the watch a sense of unity yet without being boring or old fashioned. That is of course also why Vacheron Constantin added “Contemporaine” to this watch name, though  probably in reference to to its size! No 34, 36 or even 38mm diameter but a healthy 40mm! That gives wrist presence but also offers Vacheron Constantin with a slight dilemma.

The brand is one of the royals when it comes to the production of ultra slim movements, and the 81180 has one in it, the manual wind caliber 1400 to be precise. A dream of a caliber that is about half the diameter of the whole watch: 20.65mm!  Although sapphire case backs are all the rage, Vacheron Constantin fortunately thought that a closed case back was a better option than to fill up the extra space with a huge (platinum) spacer. Some might call it a waste of the finely finished, Geneva Seal recipient caliber, with its chamfered edges and highly polished jewel counter sinks.  Actually a closed case back also has its charm. It suits the watch’s straight forward design, and honestly, wouldn’t you rather have platinum resting on your wrist than a piece of sapphire crystal?

Vacheron Constantin finishes the watch with a nice Mississippi (yes, no Louisiana this time!) alligator strap, with its signature Maltese Cross transformed into a buckle. This still is one of the coolest pin buckles available, period, and actually almost a reason by itself to treat yourself to a Vacheron Constantin. Overall the Patrimony Contemporaine reference 81180 is a watch for almost anytime, anywhere, always appropriate, never too much or too little. Perfection in its most simple form, which almost, yes almost, gives you the desire for little more.  

Gene Clark exemplified American watchmaking at its best. We’re not talking E. Howard, Waltham and Elgin. That was kid’s stuff in comparison to Clark. He ranks up there with the likes of George Daniels in that he made everything, and I mean everything, by hand using old tools and ordinary watch and clock making equipment. We’re talking balance springs, plates, dials, hands and jewels, yes jewels! Not even the big brands can claim that feat.

If you think this watch resembles the work of Breguet or George Daniels, then Clark is certainly smiling from his heavenly watchmaking bench. He was the first American watchmaker to make a tourbillon in the style of Breguet, a man whose work greatly influenced him.

Number 7, as the watch is known, is the final piece in a total production of just seven tourbillons over Clark’s lifetime. It’s a tourbillon with constant force escapement, two rare elements coming together. Any precision freak will go crazy over the Earnshaw-type chronometer escapement with Peto Cross detent. Together the carriage of the tourbillon and the escapement consist of over 80 parts. It took 4000 hours and almost four years to develop and complete this masterpiece.

Not only is number 7 technically sophisticated but also it’s very beautiful. The movement layout with the two barrels is symmetrical and pleasing to the eye and the blued screws just pop against the gilt finish. Exemplifying the  detailed craftsmanship of Clark, the unique sunburst pattern on the engine-turned dial was done on a machine designed by him. The case is composed of Clarks’ special 19K gold alloy, a true beauty with engraved floral and foliage decoration and engine-turned gold center. Lynton McKenzie who is considered one of the finest gun-engravers, is responsible for the engraving, the only part of the watch that isn’t from Clark’s hand.

Before becoming a full-time watchmaker in 1976, Clark restored antique sporting guns and was a gun lock maker, which means he made the mechanical system responsible for firing the gun and afterwards ejecting the spent round while loading a new round. He started his education like most talented watchmakers by restoring fine, complicated watches.

Clark certainly flew under the radar. How or why certain talented watchmakers break out to become stars is a result of luck and timing. Unlike F.P. Journe or George Daniels, Clark never had a sponsor, which is a great shame. The estimate of this exceptional pocket watch reflects the fact that many collectors haven’t heard of him. It’s embarrassingly low, in my opinion.

Just think if this amazing piece came from the workshop of a Patek Philippe or George Daniels. We would probably be looking at close to a seven-figure estimate. Clark isn’t recognized at this moment in time for his talent. However, for the savvy collector Number 7 is an amazing find, like discovering an overlooked gem at a flea market and buying it for a song. And who knows what history will make of Clark’s work. Read some wonderful information on Clark at the site Tempered-Online here.

View the lot here.

Estimate: $39,000-61,000

Sarpaneva is no slouch in the talent department. He can find his way around a movement with the best of them. Consider that he worked alongside Kari Voutilainen, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret, watchmakers known for their talent in high complications such as Claret’s 21 Blackjack.

Sarpaneva is known for his moody moon, the northern stars and constellations and the distinctive Korona case, characteristic elements in all his watches. All appear in the MOONMACHINE.

Here the hand-finished moons indicate the moonphase through a Korona-shaped opening. The swing of the winding rotor comprised of steel and 22K gold represents the star-filled sky, accomplished by a laser piercing, which allows light to reflect through the movement.

If you find yourself over the moon for the MOONMACHINE, then you better get moving because it’s in 3 limited editions of 18 pieces each in titanium, black titanium and red gold.

Enjoy a short video on the MOONMACHINE produced by MB&F.