Christophe Claret and Parmigiani Bet on Poker

What is it with haute horlogerie brands and professional poker? Parmigiani sponsors Bertrand “Elky” Grospellier, a French poker superstar, and Christophe Claret put their money behind top-ranked No-Limit poker player Badih “Bob” Bounahra, gracing their wrists with some major coinage. Bounahra has the 21 Blackjack, a watch that can actually play blackjack, roulette and dice, while Grospellier chose a custom steel Kalpagraph with a hand painted dagger and lily on the dial, his lucky symbols.

Parmigiani and Christophe Claret are two independent brands working at the apex of the field, producing tourbillons and minute repeaters. You might associate them more with opera and polo than the much more rag-tag game of poker. Even bridge might seem a more appropriate and sophisticated choice, a bit more nose in the air. But bridge doesn’t harness the allure of the world’s attention with its bigger than life characters—and even bigger pots to match.

Originating in New Orleans, Louisiana, in 1829, according to English actor Joseph Crowell, poker was played with four players betting which player’s hand was more valuable using a deck of 20 cards. [Read more...]

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda Annual Calendar: A Watch for the Spiritualists

Mercury may not be in retrograde, but this Tonda Annual Calendar from Parmigiani sure is. The first annual calendar from the brand uses a retrograde date in a swooping arc from about 4 o’clock to 8 o’clock.

What is a retrograde function? Instead of moving round in a circle the hand flies back to its original position at the end of the cycle to begin again. The function also adds an extra dynamic element to the watch dial that’s pretty cool. The retrograde is harder to execute too because of the extra force of the hand springing back to position one. Sometimes the retrograde function looks a bit awkward, but, in this case, it provides a nice balancing aesthetic to the dial. Parmigiani likes to take on complicated challenges like the Bugatti Super Sport and the Telescopic watch, which they introduced late last year.

Despite being one of the smaller brands, Parmigiani manufactures all their own movements. The Tonda Annual Calendar utilizes the automatic caliber pF332 with a newly developed calendar module, turning it into the pF339. The annual calendar keeps the day and date of the week accurate all year round, only in need of correction in February, unless, of course, it’s a leap year. In addition, the watch contains a precision moon with rose gold detailing, showing both the Northern and Southern hemisphere accurate for the next 120 years. Once set, rest assured you’ll know when the full moon strikes and coral in the Australian Barrier reef are mating (it’s true, ask a Marine biologist) or why your significant other is acting a little crazy.

On a metaphoric level, spiritual mediums, astrologers and psychics will appreciate the retrograde function for its reminder that life inevitably stumbles into this negative place at times. The moon phase is also convenient to track cycles when reading charts.  But this piece isn’t limited to those traversing in the world beyond. Anyone who wants balance and order in their life might be attracted to the Tonda Annual Calendar. I picture round the wrist of my Geometry teacher who used a ruler to draw straight lines through our report cards. His hair looked like it was cut using the same ruler.

In rose or white gold, the 40mm case with a thickness of 11.2mm, carries itself well and is just large enough not to be considered small in today’s propensity for larger size watches. Parmigiani offers two dial choices in silver or charcoal grey with a silvered opaline ring and choice of grained decoration or barley grain in the center. Personally, I think the charcoal grey is more masculine and the silver would better suit a woman. In any event, the Witching Hour remains the same for both.

 

 

Parmigiani Introduces the Telescopic Watch

Parmigiani is going to debut the PF 114 in the coming months at the “Mechanical Wonders” exhibition in New York City from October 26 – November 26, 2011 at the La Vieille Russie. What makes this watch so unique are the telescopic hands. As they move around the dial, they lengthen and shorten to meet the numerals so that there isn’t a gap between them like there is on traditional dials.

Not only is this a technical accomplishment, but also an aesthetic and practical one as well. It will be quite enchanting to watch the pirouette of the hands as they progress around the dial. No word yet on the how all the gears mesh together to make this juicy optical feat possible but rest assured, Parmigiani will have filed a patent (or more) to protect their new creation. Remember the Bugatti Type 370? That watch took a patent or two. It was an architectural wonder of movement design flipped on its head so you could see the gears on this drivers’ watch with 10-day power reserve. Michel Parmigiani, the man behind the brand, is known for his golden hands and ingenious solutions. And that also includes historical pieces. The industry, including such brands as Patek Philippe frequently calls upon his workshop to resuscitate the most finicky and difficult of projects. The man likes a challenge. You can read an interview with him here.

Deceptively simple, the dial of the PF 114 holds a wonderful treat for the patient eye. Parmigiani gives the grand feu enamel treatment to both faces of the gold dial. To bring attention to the balletic hands, they are constructed of blued titanium and their riveted structure is inspired by the Eiffel Tower.

In this case, Parmigiani strayed from their signature Kalpa case to present an oval shape. The lugs, however,  are still in the Kalpa style, as Parmigiani believes in the magical properties of the Golden Ratio, which they are based upon.

While there’s not a modern watch on the market that employs telescopic hands that I’m aware of, the concept is not a new one. Parmigiani gained inspiration for the PF 114 from a watch with the same hands made by Vardon and Stedman dating from 1800. Historical pieces are common springboards for modern pieces these days. Think of Lange & Sohne’s Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour Le Merite, a modern marvel based upon a watch by Johann Heinrich Seyffert of Dresden made in the late 18th century. It’s also worth it to note that the fusee and chain mechanisms employed and a signature of the Lange & Sohne Pour Le Merite line was invented in the 15th century.

One of the few, Parmigiani develops and manufactures all their own movements at the brand’s Watchmaking Centre (MHF). The PF 114 was born from the PF 110, the first manually wound mechanical movement Parmigiani produced. For now we only get a sketch of the watch prior to its unveiling. This is one I can’t wait to see in action. I might have to wait a few centuries to own one as the retail price is quoted at $100K.

Thin is Still Horologically In

Thankfully, we’ve dispensed with waifish women on the fashion runways and male models that look like you could knock them over with a spritz of cologne. This look was unnatural, not to mention deleterious. Moreover, it made the rest of us with flesh on our bones feel so inadequate, forcing us to publicly order crudités when we secretly pined for the soufflé. Such is the power of advertising. But I digress. A much healthier—not to mention attractive—way to capture the allure of the thin look is through watches.

Currently the reigning champion of the skinny is the Vacheron Constantin Historique Ultra-fine 1955, the thinnest mechanical hand-wound watch with a cased waistline of 4.10mm. Based on the original calibre 1003 from 1955, this 55th anniversary edition is [Read more...]

Scorpio Cozies up to the Parmigiani Kalpa Grande

The Astrology of Horology Series
Scorpio 2010 (October 23 – November 21)

Considered the oldest souls and wise beyond their years, Scorpios have the talent of honing in on the choice not immediately apparent to everyone else and finding treasures other’s might overlook. The Parmigiani Kalpa Grande fits right into this category and will appeal to those born [Read more...]

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