No Limits! Audemars Piguet Star Wheel

With all the dazzling watches the independents throw at us, one would almost forget how creative the old maison’s are! And what better example is there then the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel? It was in 1989 that this watch was first introduced. Back then still in a classical round case, with the time indication on the top. This proved to be the founding father of a collection which would later include the John Schaeffer Star Wheel (with minute repeater) and perhaps the most famous of them all; the Millenary Star Wheel.

The Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel 125th Anniversary Limited Edition

We were fortunate enough to get an up-close-and-personal with a watch we can only refer to as the star of the Millenary Star Wheel collection: a pink gold 125 anniversary model. [Read more...]

Audemars Piguet: Philosophically Speaking

What must have ever possessed Audemars Piguet to introduce the Philosopher in the early 1980’s? Or at all? Was it a late counter move against the quartz-crisis? A mad project of an overworked designer? Or was it just a vision piece of what Audemars Piguet thought the future of the watch would look like?

Whatever the reason, the Philosopher is by far the most bizarre yet brilliant watch that ever left the manufacture of Audemars Piguet. Bizarre because telling the time, one of the main functions of the watch before cell phones took over, has been made nearly impossible. This starts by giving the watch only one hand. Today that is not so strange because brands like Meistersinger, Peter Speak-Marin, Pita, Jaquet Droz and Defakto have been doing this too.

These other brands produced watches from which you can reasonably easily read the time. Forget that with the Philosopher! First of all the Philospher is small, 31mm in diameter, so about the size of a quarter. Secondly, Audemars Piguet did use the most elegant of hands, but made them just short of actually reaching all the way to the indices. Not that this helps very much, because the gold indices indicate the hours and three very thin stripes in between indicate the quarters. So in order to read the correct time with a decent degree of accuracy, you probably need the eyes of a hawk! If you are not equipped with those, be careful when you wear this watch. You may think that at worst you can be a couple of minutes late or early, but this could be disastrous when you travel by plane of have a wedding to go to!

Funny about this watch is that Audemars Piguet included a feature so that you can actually mark a certain time. This is done by turning the white gold dot in the rotating bezel to the required time. Just make sure you do this in advance, preferably at home with a magnifying glass.

But what are we complaining about? This watch was never intended to tell time to the precise second, even though its manual wind movement is perfectly capable of this. It was merely created to give you a sense of the passing of time. Perfect when you are sitting in front of the fire place with a XO Cognac and the latest issue of your favorite magazine, or when you take a stroll with your significant other along the promenade of St. Tropez on your vacation.

The Philosopher is also a testament to the history of watchmaking. With its case heavily inspired by an old-fashioned pocket watch, including the loop at 12 o’clock, it is of course made out of 18K yellow gold and is a dress watch put sang! Especially with the  “Grains-de-Riz”, which is as comfortable as it is beautiful!

Although this is not a watch for everyone, it is a unique Audemars Piguet that might be the perfect watch for someone. When you are ready for such a watch, Christie’s has one coming up in their Geneva auction on May 14th as lot 341.

Video: The Royal Oak Anniversary, Park Armory and Audemars Piguet Art Director Octavio Garcia

Gerald Genta's Special Royal Oak with Gold Bezel

If you’re a watch geek, I’m sure you either attended or heard about Audemars Piguet’s celebration of the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak. One of the pieces released in honor of the birthday was the Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Limited edition.

What you haven’t seen or heard is this special interview with AP art director Octavio Garcia done at SIHH a few months ago. He gives insight into the history of the Royal Oak and its impact on the watch landscape as well as why AP decided to reposition themselves and change their message.

Against the backdrop of footage taken at the exhibition held at the Park Armory, Garcia gives us a window into the world of Audemars Piguet through the Royal Oak. He speaks about the watch that shook up sport watch category for its bold and audacious design—and price.

For the show, Audemars Piguet commissioned avant-garde artists to transform the space. Dan Holdsworth took sumptuous pictures of the Vallée de Joux, where Audemars Piguet’s home of Le Brassus resides; Sebastian Leon Agneesens provided an otherworldly sound installation seeming to emanate from organ pipes set around the room; while Davide Quayola transfixed with his experimental film, playing with sculpture, photography and geometry assembling and disassembling over a mirroring pool.

Enjoy!

Vintage Watchmaking Equipment: A Rare Find

Working on watches takes more than eagle eyes. Handling such small parts requires magnification. Now there are high-tech microscopes to assist watchmakers in their craft. But before the modern era, the thought of using a microscope was a novel idea.

Swiss citizen Mr. Herman Haefliger, then residing in Denver, Colorado, came up with a new tool he thought was pretty unique. He called it the Combined Microscope and Object Holder, which he invented specifically for watchmakers that had a magnification of about 10X.

Haefliger filed for the patent in 1917 and received it in 1918.  In the application, Haefliger claims poor watchmakers had to fumble with one hand to work on a movement while holding a magnifying glass in another. I can’t imagine that loupes or glasses with magnifiers weren’t in use at this time. Haefliger obviously fluffed up his petition to make the invention seem more important.

The real question is: Is/was this thing practical? Try reaching your arms around the microscope to get at the movement for repair or examination. Very awkward to say the least. Apparently, Haefliger sold quite a few of these so he convinced some folks of his new invention’s utility.

Here we have live pictures of one of Haefliger’s watchmaker’s microscope circa 1920 along with a copy of the instruction manual and patent. Thanks to a generous collector in Los Angeles, we get a rare glimpse of this “new-fangled” machinery, which was state-0f-the-art for the time. See a full picture of the microscope  and patent after the jump. [Read more...]

Real Men Care About Being Thinner

Bigger, larger, louder, better!

The ideology of Fast Food Nation ruled the world, pumping up people, cars, houses, and, yes, watches. Hublot came out like a shot with the Big Bang—and yes it is Big. For city warriors, Audemars Piguet showed us the Royal Oak Offshore Survivor. Not to be forgotten is the starter of the big watch trend, Panerai, when Sylvester Stallone strapped one on in Italy and came back to the U.S.

In other areas such as our waistlines, thicker is a no-no. It means we’re fat and flabby. Life has changed in a couple short years. In response to a more reserved and conservative world society, objects have slimmed down. [Read more...]

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