Rousseau Exhibit at the Patek Philippe Museum

Perhaps one of the greatest thinkers of the 18th century was Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a native of Geneva. He fought for Democracy and freedom as well as personal responsibility and education. His politics and writings impacted the French Revolution and set the path for modern political thought. Ironically, he spent his life with an illiterate servant and supposedly fathered five children with her but didn’t take responsibility for any of them. Despite his personal failings, Rousseau inspired many and stands as one of the greatest influencers of the 18th century.

On the occasion of the 300th anniversary of Rousseau’s birth, the city of Geneva has arranged a celebration called “2012 Rousseau pour Tous” (Rousseau for All).

Rousseau himself was not a watchmaker but he comes from a watchmaking family spanning four generations. [Read more...]

A matter of taste; a unique Rolex Day-Date

If you have ever read the amazing stories of the “One thousand and one nights”, you are probably also familiar with Ali Baba and how he found a hidden treasure cave. Well, when you lay eyes on this unique Rolex Day-Date you will most certainly get an idea how he must felt after he spoke the magical words; “iftah ya simsim” or “Open Sesame” in plain English.

 Although until recently Rolex has always been pretty conservative when it came down their collections. Cases, bracelets and movements slowly evolved rather than changed. However, Rolex always been quite generous with different dial, bezel and bracelet options. Sometimes even special requests from distinguished collectors were granted, although these were almost exclusively gemstone set models.

 Sometimes you didn’t even need to ask Rolex, they simply made some extraordinary gem set watches of their own. Such was the case with this exceptional Day-Date that Rolex created in very limited quantities in the early 1980’s. Exceptional in this matter is not only the abundance of rubies and diamonds, but also the extreme attention to detail that Rolex practiced while making this model. Take for example the golden day and date indications on the burgundy colored background that match the overall look of the watch. Or the Rolex crown and name applied in gold on the inside of the crystal so that the diamond pavé set dial doesn’t have to be interrupted?

 But there is a problem with this Rolex. Not a huge problem, but still something that might have some people pass on this exceptional watch. The problem with this Rolex in the 21st century  is that it cannot decide whether it is a men’s or a ladies’ watch. It was definitely born as a men’s watch. Manufactured in 1982 it was simply out of the question, and most certainly out (or not yet in) style for women to wear such a large watch. But time and tastes have changed, causing this Rolex to have an identity crisis. [Read more...]

A Special Complicated Enamel Patek Philippe Pocket Watch

You probably haven’t ever heard of a reference 864 and why is that? Because this is the only one known to exist to date. One of the characteristics that makes this timepiece so special is the movement, which is the smallest used by Patek Philippe in any watch of their post war production that combines a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and split seconds mechanism. Imagine trying to maneuver your way around a half dollar to put in three functions that add up to a grand complication. But Patek is good at that, they hold the record for thinnest split-seconds chronograph with the Ref. 7059, which we discuss here.

The movement itself is a work of art, but also on the back of the watch is another, a finely painted enamel miniature of the Mosque adjacent to the College at Wattayah, Oman. These rare Patek Philippe timepieces are, [Read more...]

Not Chicken, Not Beef, the Patek Philippe Neptune

We told you about the Calatrava ref. 96 that started it all; the new splits second chronograph ref. 5204; and the rare perpetual calendar ref. 2499–well known and desired pieces. But Patek Philippe has other models on the menu you might not be aware of, but taste just as good.

Sometimes when you enter a nice, high end restaurant there are dishes from which you don’t know what to expect. Most people have this when the menu offers an Ostrich steak. What is Ostrich? What can you possibly expect from an Ostrich steak when you have never had it? Will it be like chicken? Maybe like steak, but that makes you instantly think of beef. Bottom line: a lot of guess work and not a step closer to knowing what it actually is before trying. Most people, for that reason and that reason alone, will leave it and choose something else. With watches it is often the same; we want something familiar, a nice dress watch for example, or a nice sports watch, both will do, of course, but in the same watch….?

That hesitancy is probably also what most people felt about the Patek Philippe Neptune. It’s Luminova coated hands and numerals combined with a screw down crown give you the idea that it is indeed a sports watch. Especially since Patek also offers it in steel, just like the Nautilus and Aquanaut. And when named after the god of the sea, one would almost expect that this is the watch to rule them all. But there is doubt; elegant lines, Roman numerals, alligator straps…not even with rubber lining, a bracelet that would go great with a suit and tie, khaki’s and polo’s if it has to, but please, not something too casual.

Patek not only knew this when they introduced the collection in 1996, but even did it on purpose. They referred to it as a leisure watch calling it, “Ideal for sportswear, the supremely elegant Neptune is, at the same time, the perfect dress watch”. They even went as far as saying that they believed that the watch was destined to become a contemporary classic. And that is where they are perfectly right! Yes, a Neptune will probably not be in many Patek collectors’ top-ten list of watches to get, and that is exactly why you should buy one!

The Nautilus may be a nice Filet Mignon, and the Aquanaut a juicy Tenderloin but any restaurant has them and most Patek-lovers can’t live without theirs. But why not go exotic? The Neptune couldn’t hold a candle to the success of both other watches, and that makes it just a little harder to find, more rare, and in the end, more exclusive. A true conversation piece, even or perhaps especially amongst Patek enthusiasts. Did I already mention that Patek even offered this watch in steel/gold?

The watch itself gives you very little to complain about. Just like the Nautilus and Aquanaut of those days, the Neptune is also powered by caliber 315 SC. With a height of 3.22mm it is sufficiently slender to prevent the need for a bulky case, yet at the same time sufficiently robust to feature in a watch for more active wear. This caliber also has a beautiful, full size gold rotor, which you can’t see since the Neptune has a screwed in case back. Patek offered the Neptune with either a black, silver or salmon pink dial, giving the watch distinctly different looks. Combined with the various different (precious) metal options, the Neptune collection was not only full of choices, but also offered something for everybody, especially when you count the various Joaillerie models that were available for both men and women.

So if those people who would pass up the Ostrich steak actually tried it they would have been rewarded with perhaps the juiciest and most tender steak they had ever eaten. If those people also tried the Neptune, they would experience what is perhaps the best “hybrid” watch of all.

Audemars Piguet: Philosophically Speaking

What must have ever possessed Audemars Piguet to introduce the Philosopher in the early 1980’s? Or at all? Was it a late counter move against the quartz-crisis? A mad project of an overworked designer? Or was it just a vision piece of what Audemars Piguet thought the future of the watch would look like?

Whatever the reason, the Philosopher is by far the most bizarre yet brilliant watch that ever left the manufacture of Audemars Piguet. Bizarre because telling the time, one of the main functions of the watch before cell phones took over, has been made nearly impossible. This starts by giving the watch only one hand. Today that is not so strange because brands like Meistersinger, Peter Speak-Marin, Pita, Jaquet Droz and Defakto have been doing this too.

These other brands produced watches from which you can reasonably easily read the time. Forget that with the Philosopher! First of all the Philospher is small, 31mm in diameter, so about the size of a quarter. Secondly, Audemars Piguet did use the most elegant of hands, but made them just short of actually reaching all the way to the indices. Not that this helps very much, because the gold indices indicate the hours and three very thin stripes in between indicate the quarters. So in order to read the correct time with a decent degree of accuracy, you probably need the eyes of a hawk! If you are not equipped with those, be careful when you wear this watch. You may think that at worst you can be a couple of minutes late or early, but this could be disastrous when you travel by plane of have a wedding to go to!

Funny about this watch is that Audemars Piguet included a feature so that you can actually mark a certain time. This is done by turning the white gold dot in the rotating bezel to the required time. Just make sure you do this in advance, preferably at home with a magnifying glass.

But what are we complaining about? This watch was never intended to tell time to the precise second, even though its manual wind movement is perfectly capable of this. It was merely created to give you a sense of the passing of time. Perfect when you are sitting in front of the fire place with a XO Cognac and the latest issue of your favorite magazine, or when you take a stroll with your significant other along the promenade of St. Tropez on your vacation.

The Philosopher is also a testament to the history of watchmaking. With its case heavily inspired by an old-fashioned pocket watch, including the loop at 12 o’clock, it is of course made out of 18K yellow gold and is a dress watch put sang! Especially with the  “Grains-de-Riz”, which is as comfortable as it is beautiful!

Although this is not a watch for everyone, it is a unique Audemars Piguet that might be the perfect watch for someone. When you are ready for such a watch, Christie’s has one coming up in their Geneva auction on May 14th as lot 341.

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