In many ways, a dress watch defines a man’s taste and sophistication level. Which watch he chooses to wear with a suit or tux, or if he’s slightly bold, with more casual attire, can either make the ensemble a statement of confident success or of sartorial faux pas. It’s probably most important to get the dress watch right since there is much more latitude allowed when strapping on a sport watch. Egregious choices can either be quickly addressed or overlooked much more easily.
The dress watch must be classic and thin with an air of formality, and while it’s definitely discrete, that doesn’t pre-empt it from making a statement. Time isn’t of the essence in this case. The hour and minute will do just fine. No fussed up dials with added complications like dates or chronographs that can distract from the moment at hand. No, not even a second hand should disrupt this picture. And while the current trend for watches has scaled upwards in the last 10 or so years with some monstrosities in the 50mm and over range, the dress watch retains a lower profile. So self- possessed is the dress watch that it feels quite comfortable at 36-39mm.
Martin certainly threw down the gauntlet with a classic from Cartier with formidable history. A worthy choice, indeed. I will counter with the freshly minted Ralph Lauren 867 Watch, Black Frame and One row of Diamonds (RLR0132703), which is new for 2012 from Ralph Lauren Watches. You might think my choice rash or that perhaps the fashion cache of the Ralph Lauren name has swayed me. I assure you I went through the usual suspects before I decided upon this perhaps unusual choice. Before discounting it as an unworthy contender in the face of the elder Cartier, open up your mind and see what we have here.
No doubt Ralph Lauren is a neophyte when it comes to the watch world. He has only been producing his own line of watches since 2009, a mere scrap of time compared to companies with hundreds of years of lineage.
But there’s no denying the man has impeccable style. He’s proven it over and over again with his clothing and Lifestyle Empire, not to mention his world-class collection of cars. From their debut, Lauren has shown he’s serious about horology. He got tremendous response for his Sporting Automotive watch modeled after his beloved Bugatti. One of the lines in his collection is the Slim Classique, which took a distinctive square direction last year and continues in that direction this year. We talk about the striking inaugural square model here.
Ralph Lauren Sporting based on Bugatti
Lauren’s aesthetic flair comes through in RL 867 Watch, Black Frame and One row of Diamonds with a beautifully balanced silvery opaline dial. He manages a modern interpretation while still maintaining a traditional feel. Roman numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock anchor the design with the Arabic numerals providing a wonderful complement.
Lauren takes inspiration from the Art Deco period, a movement that began in Paris in the 1920’s. In direct response to art nouveau and its flowing lines and curves, Art Deco embraced geometric shapes and straight lines. Reflecting this artistic sentiment, the 18K white gold case and dial of the RL 867 celebrates the perfect symmetry of the square, creating a nesting and framing effect that draws the eye to discover the multi-layers and exquisite attention to detail. The contrasting black and white colors are signatures of the Art Deco movement, while the Breguet-style hands, which are shiny black and oxidized, complete the portrait.
Though I typically shy away from gems on watches, the 96 diamonds here bring a certain understated glamor that suits a dress watch, elevating it beyond the ordinary. Of course, Lauren uses nothing less than top-quality diamonds bringing just enough of a glimmering fire to the frame.
As I mentioned before, dress watches don’t shout out their existence. They prefer to slip under the radar and of course must slip under the cuff. The RL 867 measures 27.50 x 27.50 and offers a very attractive silhouette of 5.75mm. While the watch might seem a touch small, the size is just right, not drawing unnecessary attention but visible enough to be admired.
New Slim Classique models, one and two rows of diamonds
But looks aren’t enough to convince this tough reviewer. Not by a long shot. Though not a movement manufacture, Ralph Lauren, as part of the Richemont group, has its choice of movements. Lauren, who is intimately involved in every decision about his watches, chose the Piaget 430P, modified for Ralph Lauren and decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage. This mechanical wind movement has a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. A specialist in ultra-thin movements (they hold record for the thinnest automatic movement), Piaget put this premier movement in their Altiplano series.
The black alligator strap with 18k white gold buckle highlights the black frame of the RL 867 providing a finishing touch. The devil is in the details and Ralph Lauren, even though a newcomer in a competitive field, definitely captures those mysterious elements that compose a perfect dress watch and deserves the title over the Louis Cartier (LC) Tank.
Piaget 430P/for Ralph Lauren
Meehna Goldsmith's fascination with timepieces began with her parents' antique grandfather clock, whose harmonious ticks and chimes echoed throughout the house during her childhood. 
Absolute a collection with style, especially the sporty models.
But the RL dress watches are a bit Cartier/Piaget inspired, no wonder since
the Ralph Lauren is a great fan of Cartier.
GEO